MILAN, September 23, 2008

The Prada  Spring 2009 collection was primitive to say the least. Miuccia Prada was definitely  “going back to what counts.”

A back-to-basics glamorous, sexy, messy…

The clothes were disarranged in various states of falling-off or looking as if they might do so at any moment - subversive sexual provocation. Rumpled and crinkled fabrics have been appearing all over this season, but never with such sly intent. One pull of a trailing drawstring tape and, whoops! A person could find herself half naked. Not that this collection is at all brassy. From some angles, it can all look like a perfectly innocent summery dishevelment—that is, until there’s a glimpse into an open-sided dress, or a cashmere sweater turns to display hospital-tape ties holding the back together (or just about).

There was something fabulously Italian about all this shameless reveling in femininity. The fifties overtones, with the high chignons, the ruched bras, and swishing rear action in the below-knee pencil skirts, managed to channel the heyday of Cinecittà without cliché.

Best of all, this is a collection destined to look even better on a woman with a real body than it does on a teen model. And that is what really counts.

Source: Style

Graeme Black’s sophisticated Spring 2009 collection graced the London catwalk to a soundtrack of seagulls and breaking waves.  The collection’s inspiration came directly from la mer (think Scottish coast not Malibu sand) - rope coiled on old fishing boats, mercury seas, sculptural rock stacks.

Black seemed to love the silhouette of a blouse over pencil skirt that cropped up a few times. So did doubled gowns, where a sail of fabric floated over a body-hugging column.

A truly beautiful collection -  the essence of modern luxury.

The former Ferragamo designer has an unmistakable level of craftsmanship.  The stiffness in his clothing is apparant, even with a white ruffle on a jacket pocket or cascading around the back of a blouse. He manages to create moveable and soft structure that is still wearable.

Photos: Style

The Spring 2009 collection by Tuleh made me fall in love all over again.  The designs are so consistently beautiful, bold and lady-like.

This independent brand  turned ten this year. The collection hosted at Martha Stewart’s West 26th Street offices, included some of his greatest hits.

Gorgeous thirties siren gown in a black-and-white floral chiffon just sheer enough to reveal the cheeky polka-dot print beneath (above).

I love Bradley’s zany taste in mismatched prints - many of the fabrics from past collections.

I love this jacquard suit (above right)  with a lantern-sleeve jacket and the narrowest of pencil skirts. It’s classic and lovely without being outdated or frumpy.

And again we see lace (below), embroidered and dainty. Trés jolie!

Photos: Style

Alessandra Facchinetti of Valentino showcased a beautiful Fall collection in Paris earlier this year (February 28, 2008).  She embraces Valentino’s timeless design, “taking something from the cleanliness of the sixties structure, but at the same time making things soft and light.”

Love the frothy blouse paired with the tailored champagne skirt (above) and the delicate off-white chiffon sleeveless dress with a belled, multi-layered feathery skirt, belted with an enameled metal bow. So pretty.

There is an air of fragility, precision, and pristine finish in these designs that work for any modern Valentino girl.

Love the immaculately cut black coat (above left) with a beautiful uprising scroll of a flounce in the back over a fluttery pink chiffon dress.

Everything is beautiful and romantic, but not too sweet.

Source: Style

A mix of 1960s & 1970s chic, Tory Burch delivers timeless and bold pieces in her Fall 2008 Ready to Wear collection. Her show was held at Christie’s auction house in New York on February 5, 2008. Burch has developed an unusually strong brand, demonstrating once again why thousands of women are hooked on her classics. Myself included!

Her Fall collection is ladylike, but eccentric and quirky.  Tweedy and Hitchcockian, nautical, and a bit Joni Mitchell. Love the peacock-feather and beetle prints, and mix of fabrics/prints.  The clothes are polished, but still fun.

Dare I comment on the shoes?  Check out the “must haves” here.

Burch even offers a kids line with some adorable pieces. Shop here.

Photos: Style